Devi (Indian)

8 E 18th St @ Broadway, New York 10003, 212-691-1300

Gorgeous high ceilings, very fancy, yadda yadda. The food was good, but not great. I've still yet to find absolutely delicious Indian in this town. (Shocking, I know. But I'm let down time and time again.) The closest I've come thus far is Brick Lane - physically adjacent but spiritually a continent away from the Curry Lane Indian restaurant row. But to Devi:

we tried the tasting menu ($60), Mom remembering being blown away the last time we'd been here. (I had more vague memories of mediocrity... one of the reasons I'd started this blog.) some of the courses offered a choice -- so we just asked for one of each dish. here's what we got...

Papad & Mung Bean Chaat - amazing. every bite of this first course, and I was sure we were on track for a fine meal.
Grilled Scallops Roasted with Manchurian cauliflower, spicy bitter-orange marmalade - and with this second appetizer, I remembered how the meal wasn't all that. the scallops were fine, but nearly tasteless. the cauliflower was odd... spicy, but somewhat unappetizing. and the bitter-orange marmalade, far more of a chutney than a marmalade, was far too bitter. instead of a palate cleanser, or a complement to the scallops, it was just difficult to swallow. (perhaps in the same way I'd considered sushi's ginger side when I was a child? or perhaps just because it was poorly-designed.)

Tandoori Stuffed Chicken Legs (spicy chicken stuffing, tomato chutney) - excellent. spicy, full of flavor, both mom and I quickly gave up on the knife and fork here, and dove in with fingers aplomb. the tomato chutney was fairly addictive... and brutally spicy in the afterglow/lingering way.
Idly Upma (Crispy rice-lentil cakes & curry leaves, mustard seeds, coconut chutney, chili-tomato chutney) - or was this the spicy chutney? I can't say. I only barely remember this dish: perhaps we didn't have it on our menu, or perhaps it was only so-so.

Veal Brain & Liver Bruschettas (Brain with green chile, quail eggs and pickled ginger, liver with onions, tomatoes and cinnamon) - I adored this. plain, but very masculine. no subtlety to it at all. meat on bread. not one bit delicate. (mom hated it.)
Parsi Halibut "Paatra Ni Machi" with mint coconut chutney, lemon rice - again, plain, but this time it didn't work so well. the halibut just wasn't interesting.

Tandoor Grilled Tiger Prawns (Eggplant pickle, chickpea flour marinated prawns, crispy okra salad) - fantastic. perfectly cooked throughout. I was very glad that we didn't have to share this dish -- it was great.

Tandoor Grilled Lamb Chops sweet & sour pear chutney, curry leaf potatoes - at this point in the meal, we were ready for it to be over. enough courses, enough food. (unlike Tsukushi, where even though we were stuffed, we still met each new dish with excitement.) it was fine, but we certainly didn't need it.

Kulfi Indian ice cream with Citrus Soup - gorgeous. the soup was so fricking sharp, and the pyramid of ice-cream was a perfect little palate cleanser.

I'd maybe go back, but I actually think I'd prefer to visit Brick Lane again...